The Benefits of a Synthetic Oil Change for Your Outboard or Inboard Marine Engine

Synthetic Oil in your boat's engine helps it run cooler, smoother, quieter and with less smoke. One of the biggest benefits of using synthetic oil is extended engine life. Synthetic oils flow more smoothly with cold-engine starts than conventional oils, helping to minimize engine wear in your marine engine.

The Best AMSOIL Synthetic Oil and Filter Change in ;target ;

Synthetic oil, which contains no carbons, won’t leave carbon deposits on your pistons, in the combustion chamber and on the back of the throttle blades. Carbon buildup can lead to engine noise, reduced power and drivability issues. For your next AMSOIL Synthetic Oil Change, contact or call Shelton Synthetic Lubricants at 330-984-2121. Shop AMSOIL anytime, online.

Carbon Buildup and Synthetic Oil Change Frequency

During the combustion process, engine oil sneaks into the chamber through the PCV system and in the form of blow-by from the crankcase. Since conventional oil is rich in carbon, deposits form. Carbon, which is nature’s molecular magnet, cakes onto pistons, valves, throttle blades, and combustion chambers. And when a boat's engine faces severe loads, such as towing a personal watercraft or skier, it only makes things worse. Since engine manufacturers have gotten a handle on fuel delivery, engines now run consistently at an optimal air to fuel ratios. That means there are no lean periods to help burn off carbon buildup. Because the air to fuel ratio is always optimized, that no longer works. Only chemicals or friction will remove carbon deposits. A Synthetic Oil Change offers added benefits that include no carbon, leaves no deposits. Depending on how much you use your boat, synthetic engine oils can last an entire boating season. Another advantage of synthetics is extended oil life. With the greater durability of full-synthetic oils, boat and marine engines can go longer between drain intervals. Remember to consult your owner’s manual and follow the engine oil weight and recommendations set by manufacturers. For your boat and PSA, check out AMSOIL Synthetic Oil for Marine Engines. These premium lubricants offer reduced smoke and odor, ease of mixing with gasoline, excellent cold-temperature flow, and advanced additives that help keep engines clean

Frequency of an AMSOIL Synthetic Oil Change in ;target ;

Marine engine manufacturers typically recommend a synthetic oil change for your boat every 100 hours, and at least once a year. Even if your engine manual allows for a longer interval between oil changes, changing the oil more often will extend the life of the engine. For the best performance and protection, trust an AMSOIL Synthetic Oil Change in ;target ;. One hundred engine hours between oil changes is fine for gasoline marine engines, but diesel marine engines are much harder on their lubrication. You should change the oil in a marine diesel engine about every 50 hours. The shorter interval is especially important for sailors who use their engines for only an hour or two per outing. Dirty oil sitting idle becomes destructive to the internal surfaces of the engine. If your boat will be idle for a while, like over the winter, it is imperative to remove the contaminated oil and fill the engine with clean oil. Unfortunately, regular oil changes are more often the exception rather than the rule, mainly because changing the oil in a boat engine can be difficult and a messy job. While it takes only a minute to drain the oil from an automobile engine, the oil drain plug in a boat is most often either out of reach or non-existent. And even where the plug is accessible, there is usually inadequate space beneath the engine for a container to catch the draining oil. The trick to a hassle-free Synthetic Oil Change in ;target ; is to find a method that works for your engine installation.

Run Your Marine Engine in ;target ;

Before you begin an oil change, your marine engine should be hot. Warm oil is easier to suck through a rubber hose or brass straw, but the reason for running the engine is more essential than that. You are changing the oil because it is contaminated with abrasive and chemical impurities. But the dirt in oil is just like dirt in water; leave it undisturbed and it settles to the bottom. Suck out the cold oil and much of the dirt stays behind, immediately contaminating the fresh oil and defeating the whole purpose of the oil change. Run the engine to get all of the contaminants in suspension so they come out with the oil. Use a socket wrench to remove a drain plug. As soon as the plug is loose enough to turn by hand, remove the socket from your ratchet and put it on a short extension. Used with a nut driver, this will let you remove the plug without dropping it into the container. If you are pumping out the old oil, the most convenient receptacle is probably a plastic milk jug. The small opening will keep the outlet hose under control, and the capped jug is convenient for transporting the old oil to the reclamation receptacle in the marina or at a nearby service station. If your pump isn't mounted to a bulkhead, wrap a thick towel around it to keep from burning your hands when you start sucking hot oil through it.

Change Your Synthetic Oil and Filter in ;target ;

Regardless of manufacturer's recommendations, change the oil filter every time you change the oil. Virtually every other type of filter you will encounter sits vertically so the fluid it contains does not spill when the filter is opened, but for some reason that totally eludes me, engine designers mount oil filters at an angle, horizontally, even upside down. You can guess what happens when you open them. For all but the upside down variety, you can contain the spilling oil by slipping a freezer bag over the filter and unscrewing the filter inside the bag. Bag it before you break the seal. Most oil filters are the "spin-on" variety. You need a strap wrench to remove them. Strap wrenches grip the canister when pressure is applied to the handle. If the wrench slips, take it off the filter and reverse it; it only works in one direction. Coat the gasket of the new filter lightly with oil before screwing it in place. Hand tighten it until the gasket makes full contact, then tighten it another 3/4 of a turn. Some older engines are equipped with cartridge type oil filters. A center bolt typically holds the filter housing in place. Release the bolt and remove the canister. Empty it and discard the old cartridge. Clean the housing with diesel fuel (or kerosene) and insert the new cartridge. If a separate sealing ring is included with the cartridge, carefully pry the old seal out of its seat by pricking it with a straight pin. Coat the new seal with oil and push it into position. Reinstall the canister. For your next AMSOIL Synthetic Oil Change, contact or call Shelton Synthetic Lubricants at 330-984-2121.